Wednesday 7 November 2012
Dubai
Our flight arrived into Dubai at
about 1:00am local time – 2 hours ahead of Barcelona and 6 hours behind
Brisbane. After Kim changed her leftover euros into dirham, and a fairly smooth
passage through Customs, we collected our bags and headed out into the heat to
catch a cab to our hotel. The taxi driver was quite friendly, pointing out
sights during the 40 minute drive along a very straight road from the airport
to where we would stay.
We passed a strip of hotels,
shopping malls, the impressive Burj Khalifa and the marina area along the way,
and it was all so different and modern compared to the European cities we had
just come from. Running alongside the main road we were on, was a very
new-looking metro train line.
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| The outside of our hotel |
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| The inside - view of the lobby from the 2nd floor mezzanine - I love this photo |
Our hotel, the Movenpick Ibn
Battuta Gate, was spectacular to behold, very large and grand. As our taxi
pulled up out the front, lots of things were happening at once. Kim was paying
the driver as porters were removing our luggage from the boot of the cab; as I
got out of the cab, I noticed 2 girls in very short, tight dresses and
tottering past in tall stilettos, really at odds with what I had been expecting
to see here! The driver informed us there was a “disco” in the building, which
explained a bit (We found out later it was actually one of the largest clubs
in the area). Suddenly feeling really tired and uncoordinated, and just wanting
to have a shower and some sleep, I stood by as Kim was checking in at
reception, and watching the girl at the counter. She looked a bit confused at
first while trying to find our booking, then called her manager, who broke the
news to us that we had been allocated a King Bed room instead of a Twin room,
and of course the hotel was fully booked so there was no other option for us.
Except once we accepted the King room, he gave us the choice of a smoking or
non-smoking room, interestingly!
With the assurance that for the
following 2 nights we would be moved to a Twin room, we headed up to an amazing
room, with the hugest and most comfy looking bed ever! I couldn't have
stretched my leg out to kick Kim in that bed even if I had wanted to!
Magnificent and so welcoming to us weary travellers. By the time my head hit the
pillow after a luxurious shower, it was about 4 am, 5 hours before our friend
Geoff was due to collect us for a full day of sightseeing.
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| Our first hotel room - luxury! |
Following some sleep and feeling
a bit more human, we went down to breakfast – like the city and the hotel, it
was amazing and huge – without doubt, the best hotel buffet breakfast I have
seen. There were pastries, fruit, cereal, the usual hot food, fish, fried rice,
good strong coffee, juices etc; 2 chefs in different spots, waiting to cook up
eggs in whichever way you wanted! I could go on. When we finished and headed to
the lobby, we found our friendly local tour guide, Geoff, waiting for us. Before
we left the hotel, the receptionist told us we could move to a Twin room on the
2nd Floor. This room was gorgeous too, with a view of the Battuta
Gate Shopping Mall across the road, an improvement on the previous 10th
Floor room’s view, of a stretch of desert sand leading to what I believe was a desalination
plant? I could be wrong. Anyway, we dropped off our bags in the new room and
headed out for some sightseeing.
Geoff lives and works in Dubai, and we
could not have asked for a more gracious, patient and generous
host/driver/guide. He was fantastic and helped make the Dubai trip a real
pleasure.
In the Nissan Tiida he had hired, Geoff first drove us
out onto The Palm Jumeirah, a man-made island in the shape of a palm tree.
Getting out of the air-conditioned car into the desert heat was a shock to the
system, but we got a nice view out over the water to the Burj Al Arab, the 4
th
tallest hotel in the world and arguably “the world’s only seven-star hotel”. It
was a bit hazy on this day, but I still got a pretty good photo of the hotel
from The Palm.
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| Burj Al Arab and Jumeirah Beach Hotel |
Next we went into the Hotel Atlantis, which houses The Lost
Chambers, a fantastic aquarium with the Lost City of Atlantis as its theme.
With 10 chambers and 21 marine exhibits, showing different varieties of fish
and sea creatures in each, this was pretty special; even though I am not
usually a fan of aquariums, I really enjoyed this one.
Afterwards, we headed for the Mall of the Emirates, not
too far from The Palm. Spacious and modern, glitzy and with the exxy label
stores, we took it all in, but headed for the main attraction (for me anyway) –
a winter wonderland
inside a shopping centre, called Ski Dubai. This was just
incredible. There was a snow covered ski slope, with people skiing,
snowboarding and tobogganing, and even a penguin show. This is the first indoor
ski resort in the Middle East - snow in the desert. I could have watched the
penguins for ages, but then we had lunch in a restaurant with a great view of
the slopes, and it was great (lunch and the view). Quite the unique experience,
no?
After lunch we went via the Marina area to the hotel, to
wait for our tour guide to pick us up for a Desert Safari. We were collected
at about 3:30 pm in a 4WD by a maniacal driver from pick up to drop off. In our
vehicle there were 2 brothers and their mother from Germany, I think? And Kim,
Geoff and me.
The Desert Safari groups and their vehicles all
congregated at a one-stop shop about an hour out of Dubai, and after a
necessary “ pit stop” due to the assumption of a bumpy ride across the dunes
requiring an empty bladder, the vehicles drove in a convoy a bit further and
then headed off-road. Everyone had to get out while the driver let down the
tyres a bit (I don’t know why this is necessary), then posed for a few photos
in the sand, and all piled back into the 4WD for some fun.
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| Geoff & Kim & the maniac/driver letting down the tyres of the truck |
Except it was not fun. It was quite terrifying for me. I
already know that I am not the most adventurous or brave type (surprise!), but
I really thought I was up for an exciting drive across sand dunes at sunset...
After about 10 minutes of twists and turns and feeling sure the truck was going
to tip all the way over when we were driving almost horizontally on the side of
a sandy hill, or fishtailing instead of just going straight ahead, I worked out
it was just better for me to hold on and close my eyes, do some deep breathing and
wish the time away.The others were having a great time, cheering the driver on
to drive more erratically and insanely, and I suppressed an instinctive urge to smack
Geoff across the back of the head when he told the driver it was “a bit boring”
to egg him on. I was relieved when it was over, and was a bit shaky when I got
out. In summary – I am a big wuss, I realise this!
At sunset, we parked and Geoff & Kim took a turn on
one of the camel rides included in the safari. I felt a bit sorry for the
camels, having to bend down, let people climb on (and invariably scream when
they propelled forward as the camel got up – tip for camel rides – lean back as
the camel is getting up! I learned this when I had to board my poor camel,
Elvis, at Cable Beach in Broome a few years ago – when the man leading the
camels actually gave instructions), and then get up and walk around in a large
circle; then bend down, let the people off and then do it all again. Ah, the
life of a camel. I like them though. Far from being horrible and smelly, I find
them quite noble and dignified, and as such, they always hold their heads high!
Granted, I never had one spit at me...
When we went into the traditional Bedouin camp site there
were stalls selling souvenirs and drinks, and Kim and I each got a henna tattoo
on our right hands. It took the lady about 2 minutes to complete, and it was very
pretty, with glitter sprinkled on for additional bling. Then we had to try to
eat while letting the henna dry for an hour!
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| The henna tattoo that I wanted off the next day - it only took about 2 weeks ... |
The night was really still and
muggy, not too much cooler than during the day. We sat on cushions at low
tables, around a stage where there was a whirling dervish performing – that is,
spinning, spinning, spinning for about 10 minutes! I think it is a ritual, with
the dancer/spinner, going into some kind of trance, or meditative state, to be
able to keep it going for so long without falling over or passing out! I really
enjoyed this performance.
For dinner, there was a huge range of salads and veges to
choose from, then we were given a choice of BBQ’d meats, and it was all
delicious. As we ate, a belly dancer performed half a dozen dances on stage,
trying to get people from the audience to get up and try it with her, but there weren't too many enthusiastic participants. Needless to say, Kim and I made no
eye contact with her!
Driving back along the dunes in the dark was at a slower
pace, but once we got back to the highway, the driver floored it again, and was
overtaking a lot of the other vehicles on the way back to our hotel. Geoff had
mentioned that with all the long, straight roads in Dubai, the speed limit is
120 km per hour, but it’s well-known that the speed cameras only register when
the speed is over 140, so many drivers on these roads stick to, or even go over
that. And there are many accidents as a result, apparently.
Anyway, it was a long day, but overall a really enjoyable
and eye-opening day. I had a bath in the most beautiful bathroom of the trip,
and collapsed into the new bed at about 1 am.
Thursday 8 November 2012
Abu Dhabi and Dubai
After another breakfast of way too many choices, we met
up with Geoff in the foyer and set out for a drive to Abu Dhabi, the largest
Emirate in the United Arab Emirates.
We drove for about an hour, along a straight road passing
through the desert, a new and different landscape. Turning off the main road
before Abu Dhabi, Geoff parked underground at the Hotel Viceroy, a modern hotel
in the middle of the Yas Marina Circuit, where the Abu Dhabi Formula One Grand
Prix had taken place just a week before. While driving up to the hotel and
walking through the car park into the hotel, we could hear the roar of engines
in the distance.
From the hotel lobby we headed outside to a walkway
overlooking the track, and I blocked my ears against the noise as one of the
Formula 1 cars zoomed past us. We stood for ages trying to snap photos of the
cars, but they were incredibly fast (and loud!). Then we went through the lobby
and past people having breakfast in the restaurant, to the balcony on the other
side of the hotel, with a view of more of the track, the hotel pool, and the
Marina in the distance. I don’t know how long we stopped here, and I also never
would have thought of Formula 1 being so exciting! We watched 3 cars
being put through their time trials, from Teams Renault, Vodaphone and Red Bull (possibly
driven by Mark Webber or Sebastian Vettel), and it was fascinating to watch.
Never in my life have I been interested in any type of car race till that day.
I think Geoff was as excited as a puppy to be there, but it was a lot of fun
for all 3 of us.
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| The Viceroy |
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| Yas Marina Circuit |
Passing Ferrari World, a theme park(!) and heading into Abu Dhabi, we stopped at a Heritage Village,
with examples of Bedouin camping sites, market stalls and workshops showing
traditional crafts. At the back of the village is a great view across the water
to the city skyline.
The city buildings of Abu Dhabi are more sleek
and modern than Dubai, and I liked it a lot. We were allowed into the grounds
of the Emirates Grand Palace Hotel – not always the case according to Geoff – and
stopped here to explore the extravagant marble lobby, cafes and shops.
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| Grand Palace Hotel |
We also
saw an exhibit of a planned cultural area called Saadiyat, which will
eventually feature major attractions – The Louvre Abu Dhabi, the Guggenheim,
the Performing Arts Centre, National Museum and Maritime Museum. It will be
quite a sight to behold once it’s all built. Out the front of the Grand Palace Hotel is an area of
dancing water fountains, and in the distance are some of the impressive skyscrapers.
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| Inside - the lobby |
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| Outside - the fountains |
Leaving the hotel, we next visited the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque.
Massive, unbelievably pristine and white, it was an impressive sight to behold;
and tourists were welcome to take their shoes off, go inside and look
around.
On the drive back to Dubai in the early afternoon, I had
a doze in the back seat. There was only so much road and sand and blue sky I
needed to see, and the smooth drive made my eyelids heavy! Lunch was at a nice spot called the Limetree Cafe, in the Battuta Mall near our hotel, late in the
day.
My mind is having trouble remembering the order of things
now, but I think it was on the way to Deira, to the Gold Souk, that we drove
along an esplanade at Jumeirah Beach, that had a similar feel to the beach road
at Surfers Paradise. Same, same but different...
Getting to the Dubai Gold Market, aka the Gold Souk, was
easier said than done. As the weekend is Friday and Saturday in Dubai, Thursday
nights are very busy on the roads and in the markets. This area is in the “old”
part of Dubai, where the roads are narrow and it was impossible for Geoff to
find a park. He decided to let us out at the market and drive around the area
searching for a park and/or waiting for us to finish shopping.
The souk is pretty amazing; the gold on display in the
store windows is very bright and full-on. I found it less overwhelming once we
got into a store and I was able to look at individual pieces of jewellery. As
the price is dependent on the weight and market rate of the day, the shop
assistant needs to weigh the piece to quote a price. I somehow knew it would be out of my price range, and I didn't see anything that I had to have, so
I was happy to just look at it all. The shop assistants were not too pushy,
however the store we decided we liked was very popular, and therefore very
crowded. Kim was ready to walk out, until I politely elbowed people out of the
way to move us close enough to the counter to get a good look. It was the only
way! She was happy enough with the quote to buy a beautiful pair of earrings.
Outside the stores, men were constantly offering us
handbags, watches, etc, but were respectful and backed off once we told them
“no thanks”. I was taken into a store where I stocked up on pashminas for my sisters
and myself – after an unconvincing effort at haggling, I actually got the price
I wanted when I told the guy I had to check on the amount with my friend in the
store next door. It was actually all the dirham I had in my wallet, so I couldn't have paid the inflated cost anyway!
Aware of poor Geoff doing blockies outside, we didn't spend too much time looking around, and were able to flag him down on his next
lap around.
Next stop – Dubai Mall. We had an online booking for a
7 pm trip to the top of the Burj Khalifa, the tallest tower in the world. Again,
there were hoards of people waiting to go up to the 124
th floor in
our group. We arrived at the top in the residents’ lift, used along with the
other 2 lifts to get us all up there in time for the next group. The view of
Dubai at night from that height was spectacular, and we spent about 20 minutes
looking out, then about another 40 minutes waiting in line for the lift to take
us back down!
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| View from the top of Burj Khalifa |
Once we reached the bottom, it was almost 8:30, so we rushed
outside the Mall to watch the Dancing Fountain in the Burj Khalifa Lake - the
world’s largest - which “performs” every 30 minutes after dark. Our song was I
Will Always Love You by Whitney Houston. The jets of water shoot as high as 150
metres during the high notes, and the lighting and timing are really impressive.
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| View from the bottom - determined to somehow fit myself in |
Geoff wanted to take us to his favourite Dubai restaurant
for dinner, so we drove from the Mall to Madinat Jumeirah, which, for a large
restaurant precinct, had a very small underground car park. By 9 pm on a busy
Thursday, there was not a park to be found, and the situation was made worse by
cars turning the wrong way down narrow, one way lanes, and causing car park
chaos. After at least 30 minutes of slow laps in search of a park, it was
decided that we abandon the idea, and headed back to our hotel.
We ended up having a really nice meal in the outdoor bar
at our hotel – there was a mixed BBQ platter for 99 dirham, so we all got one
each, had a couple of drinks, and relaxed for a couple of hours. This was an
exhausting day, especially for Geoff who had driven a long way, and in
frustrating conditions at times. Thinking back to everything we did just on
this one day, I am really grateful that we had someone to take us around and
show us so much in such a short time. The United Arab Emirates was so much more
than what I had expected; I am glad I got to visit, and recommend it as a great
place to stopover.
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| Our last dinner in Dubai |
Geoff had a 3:45 am flight to India the next day, for
a wedding. He left us at about 11:30 pm, and I imagine he went home, packed his
stuff and headed straight for the airport. Kim and I at least had time for some
sleep, before eating an early breakfast and catching a cab to the airport, to
meet our 10:30 am flight to Brisbane on Friday, 9 November. Have I mentioned
what a fantastic airline Emirates is? Other than Kim getting stuck next to an
excitable, but friendly lady who didn't mind a chat or a drink, and the plane flying through
a touch of turbulence for most of the trip, the flight home was fairly uneventful,
and was over in a mere 13.5 hours.
Back to reality on Saturday at about 7:00 am.
Highlights of my Europe Holiday
- Flying on Emirates’ A380 plane from Dubai to Paris
- Montmartre
- Musee d’Orsay
- Berthillon ice cream
- Eiffel Tower light show
- Marais
- Coffees in France & Spain - good, cheap and hot
- Big Brother updates via email from Lynette back in
Brisbane
- Bargain 3 course dinner in Bordeaux
- My new pair of Vans
- Statue of Kiss At The Spring (La Baiser a la Source) in
Luchon
- Private van transfer from Luchon to San Sebastian
- Pintxos, San Sebastian
- Larger than life flower puppy at Guggenheim, Bilbao
- Views of the sunset and San Sebastian from the top of Monte
Igueldo
- Aqueduct, Segovia
- Alcazar (fairytale castle), Segovia
- Free Madrid city tour
- Prado, Madrid
- First Class seats, super-fast train from Madrid to
Barcelona
- Hotel Actual, Barcelona
- Casa Battlo
- Sagrada Familia
- Passeig de Gracia, Eixample – our street in Barcelona
- Ibn Battuta Gate Hotel, Dubai – also the most polite
staff and best breakfasts
- Snow, ski fields, penguins and lunch at Mall of the
Emirates
- Yas Marina Formula One Circuit
- Abu Dhabi
- View from Burj Khalifa
- Dancing Fountain outside Dubai Mall
- Air-conditioning in UAE
Downers
- Rainy days
- Crowds
- My lack of warm clothing for cold days/nights
- Liborne
- Rail strike in France – 5 hour bus trip from Sarlat to
Bordeaux
- Toulouse
- Sore feet (pre-Vans purchase)
- Lack of escalators/lifts at French train stations
- Lugging heavy bags around
- Re-packing bags
- Smokers
- Scary 4WD driver on sand dunes
